Giant waves as tall as 30ft crashing on to California’s coast have caused injuries and property damage, prompting evacuation warnings.
At least eight people needed hospital treatment after towering waves crashed over seawalls in southern California on Thursday, engulfing seaside neighborhoods. On Friday, more than 6 million people remained under a high surf warning across California and Oregon.
The National Weather Service (NWS) has predicted waves up to 40ft, warning: “Stay away from rocks, jetties, piers, and other waterside infrastructure. Never turn your back to the ocean!”
The season’s first huge swell, propelled by gale-force winds across the Pacific Ocean, and a swath of low pressure off the west coast, combined with strong rains along parts of California, have created treacherous conditions. Evacuation orders were issued for Stinson beach in Marin county, north of San Francisco, and for parts of Santa Cruz along the central coast.
The Los Angeles-area weather office wrote that powerful cyclones over northern Pacific waters were sending 12-17ft (3.6-5-meter) swells, creating “tremendous wave energy across coastal waters”.
At some points along California, breaking waves were predicted to reach 25ft (7.6 meters). Astronomical high tides were adding to a significant risk of more coastal flooding, forecasters said.
“Overall, this is expected to be an exceptional high-surf and coastal flooding event that has not occurred in many years,” the weather service said. “Take caution and heed the direction of local authorities and lifeguards. Never ever turn your back to the water as damaging and life-threatening sneaker waves are likely to occur.”
In the Bay Area region, there is a chance of thunderstorms into Saturday morning, according to the NWS. The weather service office in Medford, Oregon, also expected hazardous beach conditions and gusty winds of 30-50mph on Friday, warning of possible infrastructure damage.
Surfers and beachgoers in Los Angeles and much of southern California are being warned that the risk of drowning is high, and several beaches and state parks across the state have been closed due to the weather.
High surf is often a hazard of California winters. During the winter of 2020-2021, several people, including young children, died in the Bay Area after being swept out to sea by unexpectedly strong waves. Officials worry that risks are heightened this holiday weekend, when families often flock to the beach.
A study this year found that California’s winter waves have gotten taller, and big waves have become more frequent since the 1970s, due to climate change.
On Thursday, a monstrous rogue wave sent people fleeing the beach in Ventura, north of Los Angeles. In a video taken on Thursday morning by Ventura native Colin Hogue, people are seen fleeing Pierpont beach as a monstrous rogue wave engulfs the area.
Hogue called the scene “horrific”.
“There was a lot of screaming, a lot of yelling, a lot of cussing. I didn’t know how far this was going to go,” Hogue said. “I thought to myself, ‘This is a tsunami.’”
The Ventura county fire department (VCFD) reported that eight people were transported to local hospitals after coming in close contact with the giant wave.
Andy Vansciver, a VCFD firefighter, told KTLA5: “I think a lot of lessons were learned today when you look at that video of the importance of heeding on to the warnings of giving the ocean some respect.”
Evacuation warnings were also issued in counties along the coast of the state, including Santa Cruz, Marin and Ventura.
In Santa Cruz, the local news station KSBW Action News 8 captured a powerful wave that flung two nearby children into a bush.
